Date: Sat, 6 Nov 93 04:30:10 PST
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Subject: Info-Hams Digest V93 #1313
To: Info-Hams
Info-Hams Digest Sat, 6 Nov 93 Volume 93 : Issue 1313
Today's Topics:
"outdoor antenna" ban
BAUD VS BAUDS
characteristic impedance
QSO help
Radio Shack HTs
Slowpokes
Swan 350 Info wanted
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policies or positions of any party. Your mileage may vary. So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 04:49:03 GMT
From: sytex!jim@uunet.uu.net
Subject: "outdoor antenna" ban
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
Thanks for the response guys, to my problem on my miserable little
ground plane for 2M that I put out and bring back in. Here's the
summary of suggestions for the group. /
My favorite is that of Ross, ve6pdg (see below). I'll probably
use a combo of them :-> ...
jim - ad4je
responses follow...
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Scott Richard Rosenfeld <uunet!wam.umd.edu!ham>
Invoke PRB-1. Federal law takes precedence. I mean, it's not like it's
always out there, right?
Scott NF3I
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: uunet!ERA.COM!mark (Mark Feit)
Certainly. Check the rules carefully, and see if it applies to
permanent structures or *ANYTHING* placed outdoors for any length of
time, however short. Most associations restrict things that are
placed outside more or less permanently. I'd try one of the following
(in order of personal preference):
Common Sense Approach: Argue that because the antenna is not outdoors
permanently, it is, as you pointed out, no different than hanging the
power cord out the window to vacuum the car. Don't expect this one to
work.
Legal Nitpicking Approach: Try the selective enforcement angle. If
they allow things like cordless/cellular phones, boom boxes or radio
controlled toys to be operated "outdoors," they must also allow your
antenna as long as it's not out there for extended periods of time.
(If you *really* want them to pay attention, an attourney quietly
taking notes throughout the whole proceeding probably wouldn't hurt.)
General Nitpicking Approach: If you use your antenna indoors, then
it's not an outdoor antenna, even though it's physically outdoors. If
you'd really like to convince them, bring a Diamond X-500 to your
hearing and show them what a REAL outdoor antenna looks like.
Wile E. Coyote Approach: Build the antenna into a piece of your lawn
furniture. (I presume your association doesn't dictate what makes and
models of furniture you can put outside...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: uunet!cs.athabascau.ca!rwa (Ross Alexander)
Explain to them that to overcome the losses of using an indoor
antenna, you'll have to raise power. Stress the fact that increased
power indoors means they'll be exposed to greatly increased
*RADIATION* (oooohhhhh!! bad nasty scare word!). Let them know they
have absolutely no legal remedy against that, and offer to ameliorate
the situation by using an external antenna.
regards,
Ross ve6pdq
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: uunet!net.com!larson (Alan Larson)
Move.
Or, use an indoor antenna, and somewhat more power. About 250
watts of SSB with an indoor antenna will take out most VCRs in
the building.
Alan
---------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "msanders" <uunet!smtpgw.sim.es.com!msanders.Macintosh_Mail_Server>
I would suggest a 2M J-Pole. I have several at home, and can suspend one from
the ceiling, push a tack through the top and pin it to the wall, or use your
imagination. This is made from 300 ohm twin lead, can be rolled up (if you use
the flexible twin lead and not the more stiff foam filled stuff), and you can
solder on a BNC connector, then use the length you need of coax with a BNC on
each end, hooking it up when you want, and taking it off when you want (like if
a complaining neighbor is pounding on your door).
Good Luck,
Milt
KB7MSF
---
jim@sytex.com (Jim Arnold)
Access <=> Internet BBS, a public access internet site
Sytex Communications, Arlington VA, 1-703-528-4380
------------------------------
Date: 3 Nov 93 18:08:30 EDT
From: hayes!bcoleman@uunet.uu.net
Subject: BAUD VS BAUDS
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
In article <2ajofp$stp@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu>, cravitma@pacific.uucp (Matthew B Cravit) writes:
>
> As I have always used it (as a computer person soon to hopefully be a
> technician-class ham), I have always said "baud" as a synonym for
> "bps" or bits-per-second.
They are not synomyms. Bps stands for bits-per-second, which is a unit of
information transfer rate. Very clearly defined.
Baud is the name for symbols per second. This is the rate of state changes
in a communications link. Since each symbol conveys some number of bits (which
could be less than, equal to, or greater than 1), then bps does not necessarily
equal baud.
Example: common 1200 bps modems are actually 600 baud. Two bits of
information are communicated in each symbol.
Oh, and there's no such thing as "bauds." Like sheep, the plural requires no
"s" suffix.
--
Bill Coleman, AA4LR ! CIS: 76067,2327 AppleLink: D1958
Principal Software Engineer ! Packet Radio: AA4LR @ W4QO
Hayes Microcomputer Products, Inc. ! UUCP: uunet!hayes!bcoleman
POB 105203 Atlanta, GA 30348 USA ! Internet: bcoleman%hayes@uunet.uu.net
Disclaimer: "My employer doesn't pay me to have opinions."
Quote: "The same light shines on vineyards that makes deserts." -Steve Hackett.
------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 00:20:32 GMT
From: ogicse!news.tek.com!tekig7!tekig6!royle@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: characteristic impedance
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
charlier@lsid.hp.com (Charlie Panek):
>[interesting discussion about measuring characteristic impedance of a
>coaxial line. . .]
>. . .Probably the cheapest and most reliable method is to read the numbers
>stamped on the side of the coax, and look them up in a reference book..
Cheapest, sure, but not entirely reliable. My eyes were opened recently
when I did a careful measurement, using two different methods with a network
analyzer, of Z0 of several lengths of "RG-58" coax from my junk box. Some
were as high as 61 ohms. In practice, this won't make a significant
difference for most amateur applications, but could really goof up a
phased array feed system.
My standard techniques at home are with a trimpot at the cable end, and
either TDR or a homebuilt resistance bridge. With the bridge, I adjust the
pot until the resistance looking into the cable doesn't change as I vary
the frequency.
73,
Roy Lewallen, W7EL
royle@tekig6.pen.tek.com
------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 04:10:11 GMT
From: ogicse!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!djadams@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: QSO help
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
Greetings! Updating the search for a qso, I was calling cq at about
0330 UTC, about to give up, when I was answered by KB8LGE...I thought I was
going to have a heart attack. I fumbled over a reply (rst and ur my
first qso....completely forgot to mention my name, qth, etc), but at that
moment, Static just took over my slice of the band, and I couldn't get
anything else....ah well...back to the bands...
73 de dave, N9UXU
David J Adams, N9UXU Internet: djadams@silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Amiga User and Flow Cytometry Advocate
Looking for a mobile 2m and/or 70cm rig
Conure Society of America. "Push the button Frank..."
--- -. .-.. -.-- .- -- .. --. .-
------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 01:39:41 GMT
From: sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!srgenprp!alanb@hplabs.hp.com
Subject: Radio Shack HTs
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
Riyadth Al-Kazily (riyadth@boi.hp.com) wrote:
: 2m comparisons, from QST (Oct '92). As measured in the ARRL Lab
: RS Alinco Icom Yaesu Kenwood Standard
: HTX-202 DJ-F1T IC-P2AT FT-411E TH-225A C168A
: Two-tone,
: third-order
: dynamic range: 70.5 62 65 43.5 67.5 74
: (dB, 20kHz off)
: Dual band comparisons, from QST (Jun '91). As measured in the ARRL Lab
: Alinco Icom Yaesu Kenwood Standard
: DJ-560T IC-32AT FT-470 TH-77A C228A
: Two-tone,
: third-order
: dynamic range: 53 58 53 60 69
: (dB, 20kHz off)
It's even worse than that. The above numbers are for 20 kHz spacing.
If you measured the IMD for OUT OF BAND interfering signals, the Rat Shack
unit would look even better because of its tighter front-end filtering.
AL N1AL
------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 01:42:50 GMT
From: ogicse!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!srgenprp!alanb@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Slowpokes
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
Clay Jackson (cjackso@uswnvg.com) wrote:
: Derek Wills (oo7@emx.cc.utexas.edu) wrote:
: : alanb@sr.hp.com (Alan Bloom) says:
: : comes back with their call and QRZ? again. Ack. Of course, if you
: : listen a bit before calling, you know the rhythm of the DX op, and if
: : you have a long call and send it slowly, the best thing to do is turn
: : off the radio and study to upgrade...
: Yeah, right - I can't think of a better way to persuade those of us who ARE
: trying to upgrade how nice and friendly our fellow hams can be. No wonder
: most of the growth is in the "no-code".
Be aware that I never said that. It is a quote from somebody else's posting.
Having said that, I don't think the poster intended to be unfriendly. His
point seems to be simply that if you have a long callsign, your only
alternative is to get a new call (by upgrading).
AL N1AL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1993 00:02:28 GMT
From: pacbell.com!amdahl!netcomsv!netcom.com!greg@decwrl.dec.com
Subject: Swan 350 Info wanted
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
In article <01H4VNEKVS9E004U18@ACAD.FANDM.EDU> CCS_MAH@admin.FandM.EDU (Mark Hemlick Ph. D.) writes:
>I have a chance to buy a Swan 350 in "excellent" condition. I know nothing
>about this rig other than that it puts out 300 W and is probably old.
Half right. It's old. 350 watts is the input power. Figure on 200 out, but
these things were a bit over-rated and used sweep tubes rather than real
RF power amplifiers, so you'll want to be conservative.
>Anyone have one or know how they do?
They were okay. Swan gear was a mainstay in the 60's and early 70's,
and were sort of the "Buick" of radio gear. Not the best but not the
worst, either.
> Are they tube or solid state,
Probably all tubes, might have a solid-state receiver (not sure of the
exact vintage, and I think the 350 went through several variations).
The transmitter is definitely tubes.
> analog
>frequency display,
Yes. You can still get after-market digital displays.
>modes,
SSB, CW, AM (kind of AM)
>bands covered,
80-40-20-15-10, and probably no mods possible for WARC bands
>general coverage receiver,
Not on a rig of this vintage!
>built-in filters
Probably there were some optional IF filters, but don't expect much
>suitable for HF packet?
Remember what I said about sweep tubes in the final? High duty-cycle
plays hell with these critters. On any type of digital mode, figure on
dropping the power to 50% of the SSB level. Heck, some of these rigs
didn't even allow as much power on CW as on SSB!
> Also, what would be a good price? The
>owner is asking $325, including speaker and power supply.
No way. First forget the 'including,' as its almost always part of the
deal, and is no good to the owner without the rig anyway. But seriously,
for that kind of money you can get a log of much better rigs. If you're
serious about packet, and want to do it on a tube rig, look for something
with real transmitting tubes (6146's) in the final, like a TS520 (much
more modern) or a GOOD Heath SB101 or HW101. On top of that the latter
are probably more modern than the Swan (though the model was made rather
late, over many years). Or, go for quality like Drake (they had sweep tubes
but more conservatively rated) or an old Yaesu FTDX-series rig (also
sweep tubes).
If you're still interested in the Swan, fine, but I'd cut the price in half.
As a beginner's first SSB and CW rig, I think it's okay. But don't pay a
lot.
One plus... ...the Swan dial mechanisms are legendary for their smoothness.
That's something that often goes awry, particularly on old Heath rigs.
On the other hand, if you have $325 in your pocket, keep looking for a
kindly ham with a good rig.
Greg
------------------------------
Date: 6 Nov 93 03:43:11 GMT
From: ogicse!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet@network.ucsd.edu
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
References <wb9omc.752453941@dynamo.ecn.purdue.edu>, <931104.82031.LMARRIN@delphi.com>, <stephens.752507995@ngis>
Subject : Re: 10m Mobile
Dave, following is a file telling how to expand the range of the HTX100
from 30 to 26 mhz. I have not tried it. (I copied it from a Packet
bulletin.
I'm already using Traksat 2.80; I downloaded it from GEnie.
TTYL and I hope the mod file works for you. --Leigh/KM6JE.
______________________________________________________________
* Extended Frequency Coverage from 26.000 Mhz to 30.000 Mhz
________ _________ ________ ____ ______ ___ __ ______ ___
Thanks Percy for being the first one.
Remove bottom cover. With the radio upside down and display facing you remove
the synthesizer board with the four screws, this is near the front of the
radio.
This gives access to the small board underneath with the surface mount
components on it. Locate the processor chip IC401 (UC-1208).Locate pins 28 and
29 which are on the right hand side of the chip and are 4th and 5th from the
top. Note they are bridged with solder.
CAREFULLY cut the copper track NEXT to the pins. DO NOT attempt to unsolder the
two pins form the board and use a GROUNDED soldering iron. Locate the two rows
of connector pins above the chip.
On the bottom row locate the last pin on the right. Verify with a VOM that this
pin has + five volts. Solder a 10k (1/4 w) resistor between this pin and pins
28 and 29 on IC401.The synthesizer will now tune from 26.00 Mhz to 30 Mhz.
------------------------------
Date: 3 Nov 93 22:46:41 GMT
From: munnari.oz.au!metro!news.ci.com.au!eram!dave@uunet.uu.net
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
References <9310210324.AA08266@tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil>, <2a8kud$9go@vela.acs.oakland.edu>, <1993Oct29.173504.16491@combdyn.com>unet
Subject : Re: "Vanity" Call Signs
In article <1993Oct29.173504.16491@combdyn.com>,
lawrence@combdyn.com (Lawrence *The Dreamer* Chen) writes:
| Which is nothing compared to what us Canadians have to pay for our
| callsigns now.
Or us Aussies either.
| And, it doesn't matter whether you get a vanity callsign or the first
| available callsign.
Ditto; they still cost the same: AU$35/year.
--
Dave Horsfall (VK2KFU) VK2KFU @ VK2RWI.NSW.AUS.OC PGP 2.3
dave@esi.COM.AU ...munnari!esi.COM.AU!dave available
------------------------------
Date: 3 Nov 93 22:51:14 GMT
From: munnari.oz.au!metro!news.ci.com.au!eram!dave@uunet.uu.net
To: info-hams@ucsd.edu
References <2a62vv$g29@clarknet.clark.net>, <2a8r50$mql@jericho.mc.com>, <1993Oct29.174431.16568@combdyn.com>eng.gt
Subject : Re: "Vanity" Call Signs
In article <1993Oct29.174431.16568@combdyn.com>,
lawrence@combdyn.com (Lawrence *The Dreamer* Chen) writes:
| Up here, an Amateur had to change his callsign just so he could get his
| callsign on his licence plate. He had previously requested his
| initials, which happened to be a callsign for an Amateur who went SK,
| his family wouldn't release the licence plate.
Interesting. In Australia, all lapsed/deceased callsigns are up for
grabs after a couple of years, or earlier with the permission of the
deceased's family.
One's initials, and so-called "dead men's callsigns" (two-letter
suffixes) are in great demand.
--
Dave Horsfall (VK2KFU) VK2KFU @ VK2RWI.NSW.AUS.OC PGP 2.3
dave@esi.COM.AU ...munnari!esi.COM.AU!dave available
------------------------------
End of Info-Hams Digest V93 #1313
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