Date: Mon, 20 Dec 93 04:30:25 PST
From: Ham-Equip Mailing List and Newsgroup <ham-equip@ucsd.edu>
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Subject: Ham-Equip Digest V93 #139
To: Ham-Equip
Ham-Equip Digest Mon, 20 Dec 93 Volume 93 : Issue 139
Today's Topics:
Heathkit DX-60B Mod?
It works! - was Rebuilding Battery Packs (Yaesu FNB-10)
Kenwood TM742 Problems.
Rebuilding Battery Packs (Yaesu FNB-10)
TH-78A / TH-78E. What is the difference ? (2 msgs)
Vintage Ham Gear For Sal
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policies or positions of any party. Your mileage may vary. So there.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1993 23:54:52 GMT
From: mvb.saic.com!unogate!news.service.uci.edu!usc!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!emory!kd4nc!ke4zv!gary@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: Heathkit DX-60B Mod?
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
In article <1993Dec17.022537.27505@news.unomaha.edu> ncc2001@cwis.unomaha.edu (Michael Fortner) writes:
>Hello all! I am wondering if there is anyway I can add SSB to my
>Heathkit DX-60B (currently CW/AM) so I can do 10M SSB. I would prefer
>a "black box" between the transmitter and the antenna, although a
>hardware modification would be considered.
This isn't simple. Central Electronics once made the SB-10 which was
essentially a complete SSB rig minus VFO and power amp that you could
add to old transmitters to convert them to SSB. But it wasn't cost
effective, and performance depended on the (non-existant) linearity
of the old transmitter's PA, and on the stability of it's VFO.
You'll be better off using the DX-60B as it was intended rather than
trying to make it something it's not. If you insist on doing the
conversion, find an old SSB CB set to use as the exciter, modify it
to 10 meters, and modify the PA of the DX-60B to act as a linear
amplifier for it. It won't make much difference on the air on 10
meters though.
A better conversion for this old rig would be to make it into an
FM transmitter for the upper end of 10 meters. That's pretty easy.
Gary
--
Gary Coffman KE4ZV | I kill you, | gatech!wa4mei!ke4zv!gary
Destructive Testing Systems | You kill me, | uunet!rsiatl!ke4zv!gary
534 Shannon Way | We're the Manson Family | emory!kd4nc!ke4zv!gary
Lawrenceville, GA 30244 | -sorry Barney |
------------------------------
Date: 17 Dec 1993 18:04:23 GMT
From: mel.dit.csiro.au!its.csiro.au!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!dmsperth.per.dms.CSIRO.AU!uniwa!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!@@munnari.oz.au
Subject: It works! - was Rebuilding Battery Packs (Yaesu FNB-10)
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
In article <36100@dog.ee.lbl.gov> biocca@csg.lbl.gov (Alan K Biocca) writes:
>I see plenty of advertisements for replacement battery units that fit inside
>the OEM cases. I have some dead Yaesu FNB-10 packs that I'd like to repair.
>The problem is they are glued together and apparently difficult to
>disassemble. The one manufacturer I called won't give any data on how to
>disassemble the packs (wonderful service).
>
>Has anyone successfully disassembled this particular pack, or similar ones
>and found a useful technique to apply to glued-together packs? Obviously
>I can attack this thing with a utility knife, but I was hoping for a bit
>more finesse - I have several to fix.
>
>Alan
>WB6ZQZ
The network works! Insight collected on battery pack dissasembly and
new technique developed!
Thanks to all who replied regarding disassembling Yaesu FNB-10 packs. I
successfully disassembled the three I have without using a knife by rapping
them on a desktop on each edge (without denting them) and then using a
pair of needlenose pliers (in reverse) on the inside of the top rails to
provide separation force. The pack opens at the top first, and then
the hooks at the bottom release much like the alkaline pack.
I see now that there are a pair of small claws under the top of the
battery that were damaged, and there is a small screwdriver hole under
the aluminum tape there that could probably have been used to disengage
them, preventing even this minor damage. Using the pliers allows very
controlled application of force and minimizes trauma to the plastic
(and fingers). Hemostats might work even better..
I see this morning there was another suggestion - to put them in the
freezer and make the glue brittle. I had already done mine, but it is
likely that the current cool weather helped in exactly this fashion!
I'll remember that trick!
Now that I have them apart I'll order inserts..
Incidentally, I did not get much service out of these Yaesu batteries.
My Icom and Periphex batteries of the same vintage are in much better
shape. Is this a common experience?
Alan
WB6ZQZ
AKBiocca@lbl.gov
------------------------------
Date: 17 Dec 1993 14:41:08 GMT
From: ucsnews!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!crl.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!smaug.enet.dec.com!legerlotz@network.ucsd.
Subject: Kenwood TM742 Problems.
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
I spoke to Kenwood yesterday regarding my 742. Its finally on its way back
to me with the 2 ics (see service bulletin in an earlier post) replaced.
HOPEFULLY it will work as advertised now!
If you have a radio with these problems (described in older articles with similar subject), send it back. They have the chips to fix it.
73,
n1ihu
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Legerlotz (N1IHU) All comments are my own, and do
Digital Equipment Corp. not necessarily reflect the
Littleton, MA opinions of Digital.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1993 17:25:02 -0700
From: orca.es.com!cnn.sim.es.com!msanders.sim.es.com!user@uunet.uu.net
Subject: Rebuilding Battery Packs (Yaesu FNB-10)
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
In article <36100@dog.ee.lbl.gov>, biocca@csg.lbl.gov (Alan K Biocca)
wrote:
> I see plenty of advertisements for replacement battery units that fit inside
> the OEM cases. I have some dead Yaesu FNB-10 packs that I'd like to repair.
> The problem is they are glued together and apparently difficult to
> disassemble. The one manufacturer I called won't give any data on how to
> disassemble the packs (wonderful service).
>
> Has anyone successfully disassembled this particular pack, or similar ones
> and found a useful technique to apply to glued-together packs? Obviously
> I can attack this thing with a utility knife, but I was hoping for a bit
> more finesse - I have several to fix.
>
> Alan
> WB6ZQZ
--
Alan:
I have never taken that specific pack apart, but have done loads of others.
The utility or Xacto knife, or a pencil type soldering iron with an Xacto
blade in it works well. I usually also use a very small screwdriver
(jewelers screwdrivers) to do prying after using the knife to cut into
observable cracks and crannies that look like some glue has been used. I
usually end up with some cosmetic gouges, and once in awhile a crack, but
sure beats the price of new factory battery pack. And if I destroy it, so
what? It wasn't much good anyway. What I have done is buy a battery
holder that takes individual cells into spring holders. Then I can replace
any battery any time. The only problem was that it cost $20 for a 6-cell
holder! An empty plastic case with contacts! What a ripoff, but I did it
anyway. That way I can carry a bag of batteries, or use ones of different
capacities, etc. etc.
One other thing to try, is to "zap" the pack with a car battery charger at
12 volts and 6-8 amps for about 10-20 seconds. Don't do it too long, the
batteries can build gas and pressure, perhaps enough to explode. What
happens, is that little conductive dendrites (?) creep across the space
between the plates and destroy some of the capacity. A quick blast burns
them off and gets the battery going again, at least for a little while. So
try both measures.
Have fun,
Milt
=========================================================================
Opinions, thoughts, &cetera are my own (when I can remember them).
"He flies the sky KB7MSF
Like an Eagle in the eye UTAH
of a hurricane that's abandoned."
America
------------------------------
Date: 17 Dec 1993 09:43:16 GMT
From: ghost.dsi.unimi.it!univ-lyon1.fr!elendir@tcgould.tn.cornell.edu
Subject: TH-78A / TH-78E. What is the difference ?
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
Kenneth E. Harker (kharker@bnr.ca) wrote:
: Um, I'm pretty sure that the unmodified UHF TX range is different.
: But beyond that, I am not familiar with the Kenwood internal architecture.
Okay. These are the VHF - UHF bands authorized in France :
50.2 to 51.2 with a special authorization.
144 to 146
430 to 440 (shared band)
Next band is the 1.2 GHz SHF.
What about overseas ?
Vince.
--
PSG Vainqueurs de la coupe de France 1982, 1983, 1993
PSG Champions de France 1985/86 1/2 Finaliste C3: 1993
PSG PARIS SAINT GERMAIN FC --- NOTRE HISTOIRE DEVIENDRA LEGENDE.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1993 02:10:48 GMT
From: sdd.hp.com!usc!math.ohio-state.edu!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!lhaven.UUmh.Ab.Ca!dreamer@network.ucsd.edu
Subject: TH-78A / TH-78E. What is the difference ?
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
In article <2eruvk$ldr@cismsun.univ-lyon1.fr>, writes:
> Kenneth E. Harker (kharker@bnr.ca) wrote:
>
>
> : Um, I'm pretty sure that the unmodified UHF TX range is different.
> : But beyond that, I am not familiar with the Kenwood internal architecture.
>
> Okay. These are the VHF - UHF bands authorized in France :
>
> 50.2 to 51.2 with a special authorization.
> 144 to 146
> 430 to 440 (shared band)
>
In North America the authorized bands are:
50-54
144-148
220-225 (222-225 in US and soon to be Canada)
420-450 (420-430 is only by special permission) and its a shared band.
I would guess that the TH-78E only does 144-146 and 430-440 while the TH-78A
does 144-148 and 440-450.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1993 10:15:12 -0600
From: ddsw1!chigate!FredGate@uunet.uu.net
Subject: Vintage Ham Gear For Sal
To: ham-equip@ucsd.edu
Vintage Electronics Gear For Sale
CONTACT: Don Merz, 47 Hazel Drive, Pittsburgh, PA 15228
412-234-8819 (weekdays, EST) or 412-344-0956 (eves and WEs to 10PM)
LATEST ADDITIONS: Note that these are the latest additions to a lengthy list
that is posted on Compuserve in HAMNET Library 10 in the file RADIOS.TXT.
You can also get a printed copy of the list by sending me a 2-stamp LSASE.
Grid-Dip-Meter: Barker & Williamson 600 2 - 250mhz, small and accurate.
With all coils and original manual. In as-new condition. $79
Barker & Williamson Matchmaster 650. I have no data on this at all. It's
a forward power/SWR meter in a large-ish blue metal box (color matches
the early 5100 transmitter). Excellent condition. This is not a tuner,
just a meter. Make offer.
Zenith T600 Transoceanic. Excellent+ cosmetic condition. Dial cord broken.
Does not work (it worked two months ago but doesn't now--go figure).
This is the nicest looking Transoceanic I have ever seen. With original
manual, papers and Zenith SWL guide (in lid). Oh yes...it is dirty on top
from sitting in my (dry) basement. Of course, so is everything else on
this list. $115.
CPRC-26 Canadian Military Backpack Radio. 47-55.4mhz FM transiever, six-
channel. With battery box, antenna, counterpoise, handset, headphone and
strap, and backpack. With manual. Works perfectly. $70. You can buy them
for less at Fair Radio, but they don't have the manual or the scarce
handset and backpack.
RCA ACR-136 receiver, 1938-vintage GC receiver with airplane dial. This
very rare radio needs restoration. It is electrically excellent (but
untested). Two knobs are not original. The dial face is badly yellowed.
The cabinet has been repainted and needs stripped and redone. No mods.
No rust or corrosion. Makes a great collectable radio. $140
Drake 1A receiver. Excellent working condition. The rarest of the Drake
collectables. With original manual. $319.
2 Altec M-50 recording studio-quality condenser microphones. Each set
includes 1 Altec 195A mic with (required) 539A power supply. These are
the famous 1973-vintage "salt-shaker" mics. Response is flat from
100hz-20khz. I have one with a 28A cardioid pattern element and one
with a 29B omni-directional pattern. Cost $370 each in 1973. $99 each
1 Altec 195A mic (29B omni) w/o power supply: $49
National Pewter "Feet" (set of 4) for the NC-240 receiver. Perfect: $39
___
X SLMR 2.1a X
* Origin: Via RHO! * 708.238.1901. fname.lname@radiohobby.chigate.com
(1:115/747)
------------------------------
End of Ham-Equip Digest V93 #139
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